Richang Waterfall

Richang Waterfall, also spelled Risang, is one of Khagrachari's most distinctive small waterfalls: a cascade about 100 feet high that slides down a smooth, sloping rock face like a natural water slide, in a forested valley near Sapmara village in Matiranga Upazila. It is about 10 to 11 kilometres from Khagrachari town, it is reached by a long flight of concrete steps down through the hills, and it has become a favourite short trip for visitors who want a waterfall without a multi-day trek.

A name that describes the falls

The name Richang, or Risang, comes from the Marma language of the Khagrachari hills. In Marma, ring means water and chang means something rolling down from a high place, so Risang means water flowing down from a height, which is an exact description of what you see here. The falls are also known locally as Terang Teikalai, and as Sapmara Risang after the village nearby. The different spellings, Richang, Richhang and Risang, all refer to the same waterfall, and visitors searching for it online will meet all three.

The waterfall was not widely known until recently. It is believed to have been discovered around 1993 to 1994, when it came to notice through jhum cultivation in the hills, and it has grown in popularity since then as Khagrachari's tourism has developed. A small entry fee is now charged for development and maintenance, and a new road has been built from the main road to improve access.

The way down: 235 steps

The defining feature of a visit to Richang, apart from the falls themselves, is the descent. From the Khagrachari to Dhaka main road, the trailhead sits about a kilometre to the south, and from there a hilly path leads down to the waterfall. The path includes a brick-paved slope and then 235 concrete steps, and during the rainy season the sound of the waterfall can be heard while you are still on the stairs. The climb back up is the harder part, since the route returns the same way, so it is worth pacing yourself and taking the steps slowly, especially in the heat.

For visitors who would rather not walk the slope, a bike service runs along it for a small fee. From Khagrachari town, the falls are reached by local transport: a chander gari, a CNG auto-rickshaw or a motorbike towards Matiranga and Sapmara, getting off near the trailhead. If you are travelling towards Khagrachari town by bus, the Richang bus stop on the Chittagong to Khagrachari highway, about 10 kilometres before the town, is the landmark, and the waterfall lies about two kilometres from that point. A signboard marks the way from the highway, and the path is surrounded by green hills.

The waterfall and its rock slide

Richang's character comes from its rock. Unlike a waterfall that drops vertically into a pool, much of Richang's water slides down a smooth, sloping rock face, which is why it is often called nature's slide. In the rainy season the flow is full and powerful, and the water pours down the slope with a sound that carries through the valley. In winter the flow is calmer, which makes the trekking easier and safer, though the falls are less dramatic. That seasonal contrast gives the falls two personalities, and both are worth seeing.

Visitors should treat the rock with respect. The slide is fun, but the rock is slippery, and the same smooth surface that makes it a slide also makes it easy to fall. Grip-sole shoes are essential, and an extra set of clothes is a good idea, since the slide can soak you and the rock can tear clothing. The pool at the base is shallow in places, and the surrounding forest is lush and green, with bird calls mixing with the sound of the water. Photography is rewarding from several angles, both from the base and from the top of the falls, where the stream appears as a white line on the mountainside.

When to go

The rainy season, roughly June to September, gives the fullest flow and the most photogenic falls, while the cooler months from November to March give the most comfortable trekking. Some guides recommend the period just after the monsoon, around August to October, when the water is still strong but the weather is easing. Whichever season you choose, check the weather before going: heavy rain makes the hills slippery and the steps harder, and the falls are best visited in daylight.

Foreign visitors to the Hill Tracts generally need permission from the district administration, and everyone should check current local conditions before fixing dates. Facilities near the falls are limited, so carry drinking water and light snacks, and take all litter back with you. The villages and jhum fields around the falls are people's homes and livelihoods, and the same respect that applies at any hill site applies here.

A short trip that feels like more

Richang is not a remote expedition, and that is its strength. Within an hour or so of Khagrachari town, you get a forested valley, a long stair descent, a waterfall with a genuinely unusual shape, and a climb back up through the hills. It pairs naturally with Alutila Cave, which lies only a few kilometres away, and the two together make an excellent half-day or full-day trip from the town. Come with good shoes, a spare set of clothes, and time to sit by the water. The falls are small by the standards of the great waterfalls of Bandarban, but their slide, their setting and their Marma name make them unmistakably Khagrachari's own.